Tips for Sewing with Vintage Patterns
Mena Trott shares her clothing sewing at the fabulous The Sew Weekly. Since Fall of 2009 Mena has sewn something to add to her amazing wardrobe every week, with the hope that by the end of 2010 she’ll have an entire wardrobe full of clothes she made herself. You can learn more about The Sew Weekly and see the entire wardrobe so far here. Most of Mena’s sewing incorporates vintage fabrics, patterns, notions, etc., and Mena is a huge fan of vintage styles. We’re so happy she’s here today to share some tips for sewing with vintage patterns.
I have a few confessions to make:
- I don’t make muslins.
- I don’t trace my patterns onto tracing paper.
- I don’t know how grade a pattern up or down.
- I’m still learning how to insert a zipper without it looking like a big mess.
With all those secrets out of the way, I have to tell you a bigger secret: You don’t have to be a pro to sew a nice vintage garment.
So if Sew,Mama,Sew! has tasked me with writing a tutorial on sewing with vintage patterns, why in the world would I start my article like that? It’s simple: I want to inspire you to open those dusty and age-worn pattern envelopes and conquer any fears about sewing vintage. I’ve only been sewing seriously since September 2009 and in the past nine months I’ve gained all sorts of experience from the mistakes I’ve made. With only a few exceptions, I’ve only sewn from vintage patterns– about 45 articles of clothing since last September. I’ve worked from patterns ranging from the 1920s to the 1970s and in no way am I an expert. But that’s okay because sewing vintage is not as difficult as it seems!
For those of you who have yet to discover the vintage sewing world, here’s what I have learned along the way:
Pick an era, any era. I mostly sew from patterns from the 1940s for a number of reasons. One, they require a lot less fabric than other decades and that’s a cost savings. Early and mid-1940s style wasn’t just a preference, it was a mandate. The rationing of fabric is clearly reflected in the strict guidelines these 1940s patterns follow. Two, 1940s fashions are incredibly wearable in 2010. A 1945 dress can blend in with modern styles (if you actually want to blend in) in a way that dresses from, say, 1955 can’t. Three, I’m a mother of a toddler and need practical clothing. Four, I just like the style! Spend some time on sites like the Vintage Pattern Wiki and discover what style is best suited to your body shape and your lifestyle.
Decide whether you’re a vintage sewing purist or a vintage pattern enthusiast and be content in your decision. Here’s a quick quiz on whether you’re a purist or an enthusiast:
Your pattern instructs you to sew in muslin for interfacing. Do you:
a. Faithfully consult your vintage sewing book and follow the steps to interface your garment like in the good old days.
b. Embrace the fact that iron-on interfacing was invented for a reason.
It’s button hole time! Do you:
a. Hand stitch your bound buttonhole. After all, that’s what the instructions call for!
b. Get that buttonhole sewing machine foot out and press a button.
“A” you’re a purist, “B” you’re me. But even if you’re an enthusiast, you’re going to want to invest in an old school sewing book. Vintage patterns are not only sparse in instructions (compared to modern patterns), they also call for techniques have often been improved upon. If you’re a vintage sewing purist and want to stick to all the old techniques, you’re going to need a book to guide your way through construction. If you’re not a purist (like me), you’re at least going to need these books to make sense of the terms used. By the way, a slide fastener is a zipper.
Sewing vintage doesn’t have to be expensive! My number one source for patterns has been estate sales and flea markets. To find estate sales, simply do a Craigslist search for “vintage” “sewing” and “estate sale.” Flea markets are usually on Sundays and can be found through online directories. Both options are likely to be sources of fairly inexpensive patterns covering a huge range of years. eBay and Etsy are also good sources but be wary of being price-gouged (more on eBay than Etsy) — if there’s a pattern you love for $65, be patient. You’re likely to find a similar pattern somewhere else for $15. The pattern companies of yesteryear were notoriously ruthless about copying styles and that benefits us today. You’re going to have the most luck finding McCall’s, Simplicity, Butterick and Vogue patterns; the older (and often more expensive) gems tend to be patterns from companies like Hollywood Patterns, Pictorial Review, Advance and New York Patterns.
As a rule, I usually don’t pay more than $10 for a pattern. There are exceptions, but few. Even with that limitation, I don’t feel like I’m depriving myself of buying the styles I like.
It’s not just about patterns! I love using vintage fabric and notions. And if you shop at flea markets and online, you can find your supplies for prices that rival their modern counterparts. Just be sure to pay attention to selvedge width. Older patterns will most often call for yardage based on 35″, 39″ or 44″ width. Vintage fabric corresponds with those measurements so you’ll want to take that account when purchasing.
All of this came from one estate sale. The cost? $20.
Know your bust size! Modern sizing and vintage sizing vary greatly so you’re going to be relying on your bust, waist and hip measurements. Thankfully, bust size often is enough of an indicator of the general fit of an entire outfit. Depending on the fabric you’re using and the shape and silhouette of a garment, you might be able to buy a size above or below your bust size and have few issues. My general rule of thumb is stick with my correct bust size when working with non-stretch fabrics and snug dress lines. While I don’t make a muslin, I constantly try on the pieces I’m working with and then make adjustments. Once you’re ready to re-size patterns, there are a number of tutorials online.
A dress form is your friend. While my resizable dress form is fairly true to my measurements and I can check for basic fit, the dress form serves more as a way to wrap my head around a pattern’s construction. Often, when I can’t make sense of instructions, my dress form puts it in three-dimensional perspective. I can honestly say that having a dress form improved my sewing skills drastically.
Mark up that fabric! Those notches and circles and dotted lines? They’re all there for a reason. Sewing with vintage patterns (all patterns, really) will be so much easier if you error on the side of over-marking. There are tons of supplies out there that will aid you in marking up your fabric pieces. Check out Sally’s guide to sewing tools to get you started.
Don’t tackle more than you are comfortable sewing. At least for now. If you’re not ready to sew sleeves, look for sleeveless styles or sleeves cut in one with the blouse. If you’ve never worked with a vintage pattern, stick to printed patterns. (Yes, there are patterns that aren’t printed — they are simply marked with holes — circles, squares and notches). Pick a pattern that you could imagine constructing even if you lost the instructions. Basically, don’t feel like you need to start with a couture masterpiece. Practice will make you a better seamstress and you’ll soon be creating real works of art.
Additional resources from our archives to help you work with vintage patterns:
- Learn How to Take Measurements
- Patterns… Demystified!
- What Kind of Learner Are You? Tips for Working with Patterns
- Making a Muslin
- Full Bust Alterations (or Adjustments) ~ FBA
We also really like this Pattern Making Measurement Chart from Michelle from Keyka Lou Patterns.
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50 Responses to “Tips for Sewing with Vintage Patterns”
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Great tips! Makes me want to go out and find some vintage patterns to try!
Great tips, thanks for sharing! I have to go check out vintage sewing pattern wiki now!
I love vintage patterns! I have sewn a couple Vintage Vogue patterns (re-releases of the originals) and I have my first “real” vintage pattern on its way. I love the structure/tailored lines of the ’40s and ’50s
Great tips! I love vintage designs! One of the pattern companies is reprinting some of the their vintage designs … at the moment I can’t remember if it’s McCalls or Simplicity.
Love vintage patterns. Thanks for the tips.
Nice tips. Now if only I had a “vintage” size!
I need to start sewing vintage. I’m just afraid to cut into those patterns.
Great suggestions and ideas. I recently rescued a large box of vintage patterns that were headed for the trash, but didn’t really know what to do with them. This will help me see them in a different light. Thanks.
I recently came into several vintage patterns. So perfect timing with your tips. Thank you.
I never thought of using vintage patterns until recently (when it was mentioned on SMS). I now can’t wait to get out to the thrift shops and start looking for vintage patterns and vintage fabrics.
I love some clothes for the 1950′s, but I am a 60′s/70′s girl. Wish I could find patterns from that time.
I’ve been collecting vintage patterns with aspirations of this very goal! Thanks for sharing Mena’s blog with us! I am definitely going to use it as a launch pad into my own efforts now that I’m actually starting to sew!
Really enjoyed this article….good ideas
I am a enthusiastic follower of Mena’s terrific blog, and her creativity, thrift, and style are always so inspiring to me. Great article. I think I’ll get busy now and sew myself something old . . . er, new.
Love the tips! Thank you!
I absolutely adore vintage sewing patterns and also get mine at thrift stores and garage sales. I have heft stash, BUT, I have yet to sew one! ha ha ha! I finally altered one to fit me (with the help of my sewing teacher) but now need the guts to try to sew it. These were GREAT tips! Thanks so much for sharing!
A whole wardrobe full of clothing you made; how wonderful that would be to see!!! I saw some vintage patterns at an antique market in Volo,IL last Monday and they were so tempting to pick up, but I restrained myself due to the fact I may never use them! They are sooo fun to look at though.
Wow…fascinating! What a great bit of info about sewing vintage. I love the look but haven’t thought to tackle sewing something. Sounds like fun!
Mena’s blog is so cool, thank you for the tips!
Love this post…I have vintage fabric and patterns I sew with, these are great tips!
I love to hear that you don’t trace patterns. Yeah!!!
gorgeous dress. thanks for all the great tips.
This is my absolute favorite article all month. Thank you SO much!
thanks for the tips. i like vintage patterns and vintage fabrics. usually i can’t pull them off though >.<
I’ve seen some beautiful outfits made by people using vintage patterns. Your tips are very helpful.
ok, you inspired me.
Oh I love it! All the pieces on your blog are fantastic!
Love, love, love vintage patterns! Thanks for sharing. Happy Sewing!
)
thanks for the post! I love to sew vintage patterns. I started in high school, mostly thrifted sewing patterns from the 60s, just taking any size and adjusted as i went along (mostly taking everything in, i was a late bloomer). Now I go for the patterns from the 40s because it is nice to have a waistline (I’m 43). I only pick patterns for my bust size (and funny to see 32″ bust is a sz 12), make another pattern with adjustments for waist hips and back length and then usually make a muslin. Your post inspires me to just go for it … sometimes trying to make things perfect is really tedious. I do learn a lot with every project but I resolve to ease up.
Anyone have a good source for quality rayon (vintage or new)?
just looked through your whole blog! your dresses are so pretty. i love dresses 1,2, holiday party, louisianna hayride, never wear batik, AND the i made pants and great to be back combo. you are so inspiring! thanks!
Thank you for the tips!
Love your dresses! Thanks for sharing all the wonderful information. Don’t you just love great estate sale finds? I just found some 1950′s kitchen fabrics at an estate sale, but I just don’t want to cut into them – LOL.
I love vintage patterns and fabrics. I have some stuff from my grandmother’s stash. It is fun sewing from something she chose years ago!
I hadn’t really thought about vintage sewing but can’t wait to check out that wiki site.
The iphone has an app to calculate yardage based on the different widths of fabric. That may come in handy when reading fabric requirements on vintage patterns.
Thanks for all the great tips!
Thanks very much for the tips! I’ve collected quite a few vintage patterns from thrift stores, though I haven’t quite had the courage (or the figure) to delve into sewing them.
Great article!
Vintage sewing sounds like fun!
Wonderful dress, love the tips.
I’ve been hesitant to use vintage patterns. I’m in my 50′s and don’t want them to age me any more than I already am. That said, I think I’ll give one a try. BTW I don’t trace patterns either, not even the expensive ones.
I really enjoyed this article. Love the other resources at the end.
great tips! I have a whole box of vintage patterns I need to go through
I have lots of my grandma’s patterns boxed up – you make me want to dig them out and give them a try. Thanks.
You are SO inspiring!
You’ve only sewn since late last year-okay, you are taking away all my excuses for not sewing and posting about it!
Love your humor!
Thank you!
Mena Trott might be the most adorable seamstress ever. I love her vintage style, and her blog is wonderful as well as inspirational to a novice sewer. Thanks for showcasing her talent on Sew Mama Sew.
I’ve been following Mena’s blog for months and am “sew” inspired by it! I’m really impressed by what she makes, especially because she hasn’t been sewing her whole life. It gives me hope!
I am in love with some 50s vintage patterns. Bought several off of ebay. This makes me feel a lot better about tackling some of those this winter, thanks so much!
I just made a dress from a vintage 1980 pattern yesterday. I hear what you are saying about the appeal of the 1940′s – my pattern called for an unconscionable amount of fabric. I will post it in the Flickr group this evening. Nice article, Mena, love your approach.
I came over here from (an obviously old) post on Mena’s blog, which I’ve just discovered. Thanks for the tips! I like your approach, too, and also am a big fan of 40s styles.
I agree with “mark up the fabric”. Sewing with vintage sewing patterns is fun, but it can be challenging. I like making muslins (which I can really mark up) first before attempting the final vintage version.
Nice post.