Tunic Tips ~ Making the Perfect Tunic
Mary O’Neil from Hot Potatoes has been on a year-long quest to sew the perfect tunic. Today she shares some tips she’s learned for altering patterns to create your own perfect tunic. Learn more about Mary and her Hot Potatoes company in her introduction, and don’t forget to comment on today’s post for your chance to win this week’s prizes. Tell us– Have you made a tunic? Do you have a favorite pattern? Do you have any good tips for details that make the tunic?
We have lots of great tunic patterns in the shop. Have you tried Jennifer Paganelli’s Sophie Tunic? The Emily Bell Sleeve Tunic? What about the Sis Boom Patricia Tunic for women? Amy Butler’s versions? The popular Schoolhouse Tunic from Sew Liberated? Tell us all about your experiences! Link to any tunics you’ve made!
A tunic is a perfect garment for any female. In your twenties? Wear it short, as a dress. Let it flow or belt it. In your thirties? Wear it with tight jeans. And as you get on up the scale, pair your tunic with jeans or Capri pants. A tunic can hide flaws, be cool and it’s always comfortable.
I went in search of patterns and, as many of you know, when a pattern has drawings of the garment on the front rather than an actual person in the garment, then there are bound to be problems. Usually a pattern without a real person in the real deal has not been tested. This was the case with my patterns. What should have been a wonderful weekend project was full of disappointment.
So I have made some changes to make your experience with making a tunic a happy one. I have now completed four tunics and three muslins. It is only appropriate to share what I have learned as every closet should have a tunic inside. I have now made one for my mother. It is mid-calf length with pants and she refers to it as her Indira Gandhi ensemble.
I made another for a friend and she is wearing it every time I see her.
I chose to make the one in this tutorial sleeveless, but that was a personal decision. I think it may have had to do with the 98 degree heat, before summer had even officially arrived. I chose several patterns. I worked most specifically with Butterick 4856 as I wanted a yoke with a slit. I also wanted no back seam as my figure is pretty stick straight. I have no junk in my trunk. I also embellished the yoke which is optional and depends on your fabric selection. New Look 6803 and Butterick 5392 were also used, or at least parts of them were.
Reworking Necklines
The biggest problem came with the neckline. I wanted something that felt open and cool. The neck needed to be low but not revealing. The neck from all the patterns was too high and either flopped open or needed a closure, making the garment cloying and hot. I have reworked the neckline to produce a garment that is wearable and comfortable.
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Here is how I solved the problem. I lay the original pattern piece down and drew a curve that would drop the neckline down by two inches. I graduated the two inch point back up to the original neck point. See the red line? I have designated a stitch line and a cutting line. See the little scissors? |
Reworking the Yoke
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I had to adjust the yoke piece only slightly to get what I wanted. I have shown the original next to the adjusted piece. I only dropped ½ inch from the yoke neckline. I also made my yoke and slit a bit shorter. |
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When you cut out the two pieces for the front yoke add two inches to the length of each side where the yoke goes into the shoulder seam. Specifically, this altered piece is the facing for the yoke that has interfacing ironed to it. By making this adjustment you will have a tail to turn under for a clean finish. |
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I also found that I could cut out a large back facing from the contrast fabric. I used the pattern back to draw this piece and made sure that the facing was as long as the front slit would be. Take note that when this is attached sew wrongs sides together. This back facing gives a more finished garment and hanger appeal.
With these revisions made to the yoke and pattern front you are ready to cut out your pattern pieces. |
Tips for Sewing your Tunic Pattern Pieces
Your first point of confusion might be when you attach the yoke to the front piece. It takes a few minutes to understand how the curves work together.
My suggestions here are simple and critical: Mark the points on the yoke and the front very VERY accurately.
Pin and then hand baste the pieces together. It is worth every second of your time.
DO NOT CLIP at the pivot points, only clip these places AFTER you actually sew the yoke to the front on your machine. Pivoting these corners is the critical execution in making tunics a success. Believe me when I tell you I have ripped a seam more than once.
The iron is your friend. Press every opportunity you have. You will be gad you did.
Finishing the Tunic
If your pattern directs you to add bias tape,
For the shoulder seams and side seams I suggest making French seams as this tunic is going to be as lovely in the inside as it is on the outside. If your tunic has a back seam you will want to French it as well.
In order to make nice side slits I also found a great tutorial for this as well. Scroll about halfway down the page to Another Technique: Sewing a Bound Slit. With these revisions made to the yoke and pattern front you are ready to cut out your pattern pieces.
At this point I suggest you practice this technique. Make a sample. When you do execute this attaching of bias only work with one side in the beginning. Sew the bias tape around the side and bottom of the garment. Then start with the second piece of bias to make the bound slit. This insures that you have exactly the correct amount to bias to sew the corners and side and bottom edges of the tunic.
Refer to the link above about bias tape if you need help to miter the corners.
I also sewed bias tape around my arm holes. This is much more attractive than an armhole facing. I am not a fan of facings. Then I turned the bias to the inside and did two rows of top stitching to secure it.
My next step is completely optional. I cut out some of the dots from my contrast fabric. I placed them around the yoke and sewed them on with rough stitches using six strands of embroidery thread.
You’ll want to hand stitch the inside yoke down. Also stitch under the tails of the bias tape at the two side slits of your tunic.
Yeah! Finished!
This week you could win a complete fat quarter pack of Spring Street by Carolyn Gavin, Crafting a Meaningful Home by Meg Mateo Ilasco or a $25 Gift Certificate to Sew,Mama,Sew! Comment on any post this week for your chance to win!
97 Responses to “Tunic Tips ~ Making the Perfect Tunic”
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Yet another great tutorial! Thanks SMS and Mary O’neil!
very informative. thanks!
Very practical and love the fabric! I tend to stay away from tunics because I don’t have the pants/skirt wardrobe to make them work. I am working on repurposing some polo shirts in to tunic-like tops, but I haven’t finished one yet, so I don’t have much to share about it
I hadn’t made the connection between no model and possibly no testing. I’m still new to patterns, so that’s a great tip!
Nice write-up. My mom spent hours combining/altering several patterns to come up with the perfect tunic pattern for me. It is a pattern I cherish!
wow – I really like the changes you made to the neckline! I’m not brave enough to try a tunic yet, but I will bookmark your tips!
This makes this project look almost doable! I have never attempted a shirt before…. I just might give it a go!
Thanks so much!
Excellent tute! I never knew that about pictureless patterns not being tested. o_O
Thanks for all the tips! I definitely think that a tunic is a project I would like to tackle soon, so this is perfect timing.
I didnt have any plans to sew a tunic top this summer, but now I do.
Thanks for the great tips! I love your modifications.
Thanks for the tips. I’ve been perusing tunic patterns. This couldn’t have come at a better time.
That looks great! I think I’ll make a tunic my next project! Thank you for sharing.
I really like the fabric you chose. Also, it’s nice to get clear instruction when trying to alter something. Thank you!
perfectly timed tutorial…I am almost done with my second pregnancy and wanting to make some loose-fitting clothing for right after I have the baby…
This is so cute!
I’m making a shirt now and have been wondering what to do about finishing the armholes. I was leaning towards bias tape, so thanks for the extra push!
thanks for the amazing tutorial! This will be on my project list!
I needed to see this, thank you!
great tips on personalizing a pattern! My favorite tunic is Meg’s schoolhouse tunic, so simple that it leaves me room to embellish and play. Each one i make looks so different!
great advice on adjusting the yoke!
Thanks
I just did view B of New Look 6803. I made it into a dress and it turned out very well with some adjustments and wanted to make the other view next. I am so happy i found this article before i start cutting!
I like the contrasting bias. Tunics are so great for summer.
I’ve made two of Amy Butler’s Anna Tunic. You can see them on my blog (not self-promotion, I just know how useful it can be to see a pattern made up).
http://memgirl.blogspot.com/2009/04/anna-tunic.html and
http://memgirl.blogspot.com/2009/05/green-anna-tunic.html
great tute, very inspiring, howver one of the links doesn’t work in this sentence: “Finishing the Tunic
If your pattern directs you to add bias tape, Here is a link to help if you haven’t…”
Terrific! I have not made a tunic, yet, but I LOVE this and can’t wait to try it. Thanks for the tutorial!
I haven’t ever done a shirt either, but this is very well-explained and worth giving a shot. Thanks!
I agree that a tunic is so versatile. Love the choice of fabrics for this one. Very flattering.
Thanks so much!
I have the Schoolhouse tunic pattern, but haven’t been brave enough to cut into any fabric yet. It is on my list of summer “To Do’s”
Ah, thank you! I find sewing for myself so difficult. Sizing is always a problem!
Nice! I’ve got a couple tunic patterns but haven’t tried them yet. I’d really love to use some voile or some other drapey fabric for a finished garment. I really love that Anna Maria Horner tunic.
Thanks for the info, I would have never thought of making those changes but now I will try it.
Gawd, I love tunics but they were the bane of my life last year! I made the Schoolhouse tunic which turned out beautifully but I forgot to preshrink the fabric, so I’ll need to lose some weight before I can get back into it, and I made several variations of Make It Perfect’s Shearwater Kaftan, none of which fitted despite me widening the shoulders several times, which is a shame because I really like the simplicity of that pattern.
I also have patterns for Lila Tueller’s Funked Out Peasant blouse (probably doesn’t qualify as a tunic but what the heck), Amy Butler’s Lotus tunic and Heather Ross’s tunic in her Weekend Sewing book which I would like to try. Hopefully I’ll have better success than last year!
You make is look so easy. I have not sewn garments in years. Very cute.
I have been wanting to sew a tunic for a while now, but the patterns I find all have one thing I just don’t like…I have the new ones from Liesel Gibson, so I’m going to give it a try…thanks for the tips!
awesome advice, thank you so much for the direction!
I am not brave enough to sew clothing but I love to read/listen to anything by Mary O’Neil. I have been a fan since watching her on the Carol Duvall Show many moons ago. thanks for sharing.
Love the tips on using the bias tape to finish the arm holes and slits. Thanks!
This is a very cute tunic and the tips are helpful.
This helps alot. Makes me think I might could actually sew my own tunic…:) yay!
I love Ms. Mary! Always have since, well, y’know. LOVE the tunic ideas. Great. Now I’m on a quest!
Thanks for the inspiration! I especially love your detail and finishing!
Great tips on neat finishes! I like my “insides” neat and finished. Facings sometimes are a mess on the armholes so the bias tape is a great alternative.
Love this pattern!
Having made many garments over the years, I agree with Mary–happiness is in the details. French and flat felled seams are extra work, but the finished product will be more durable. Pressing at every step is essential, too. Thanks Mary
I’m a quilter, not a sewer–I find it fascinating to see how garments are made. I wish I’d paid more attention when my mom was sewing…but it’s nice to have you here to help me catch up.
If you have a bust size bigger than a B-cup you’ll also need to do a full bust adjustment (google it and there are heaps of good links that explain what it is and how to do one), otherwise the tunic will be tight across the chest and look awful, or if you cut the size for your bust measurement it’ll be too big everywhere else! I learned this the hard way… Get the right fit on a tunic though, and they’re great!
Perfect timing! I have a tunic pattern already to go and these tips are going to be very helpful! Thanks!
Thank you! I think I have that very pattern and ruined some beautiful AMH voile because I just didn’t get it. Seeing the one you made for a friend makes me want to dig it out and try again. Thanks so much for the tips. It really is difficult to sew alone; how nice to have a helping hand even if it’s through cyberspace!
i haven’t make or try to make one. but with this great tutorial i know i can and will. thanks sms and to you mary
I am left scratching my head and wondering if I had what it takes to work on my Amy Butler tunic that’s sitting next to my sewing machine. See, I have sort of a phobia of tunics since I took a beginner’s sewing class in which with the help of the instructor I made a potato sac and they insisted on calling it a tunic.
I love the end result of this tutorial but it does leave me with a feeling of ‘Don’t go near it, girl!’ If you needed a sign here’s one for ya.
I have been wanting to make a tunic this summer. Thank you for the inspiration and advice.
Love the tops and the sewing tips and tricks. The tunics remind me of my favorite pattern by Sis Boom/Carla C, the Patricia Tunic.
I’ve never altered a pattern, but am so going to try now. I just finished a tunic that I’ll wear, but don’t love and my hesitation is all in the neck line. Thanks so much for this. It’s like you were peaking in my sewing room
Nice tips. I have not made a tunic, but I want to. I’m just afraid it will look too much like a maternity top or an old lady, on me. I just need to go ahead and make one.
Very cool looking.
great tutorial, I have fabric and a pattern to make a tutorial but haven’t got around to making it yet.
That was a wonderful post. The pictures really helped me to understand what she was talking about. I have purchased patterns, fabric and a body double..and still have no garment to show! I’m going to keep trying, she’s so inspiring.
I have a couple of tunic patterns i’ve been meaning to try from the Lisette range… must get onto that!
Great tutorial! Thanks!
Thank You Thank You Thank You!!!! What a helpful, and easy to follow Tutorial!! Thanks for sharin’ with all of us!
Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing it
Thanks for the wonderful tutorial. I love how that tunic looks on her.
Wow, love this very much! Great post. Thanks a lot!
Another fantastic tutorial and just what I was looking for. I’m off to check out your other tunic patterns now.
And the giveaway? I’m drooling right now. Drooling I tell you. I wants it. My preciousssss….
thanks for the tutorial!…your instructions are very clear,end the tunic is so nice and wearable!
Simply brilliant! Great advice and love the fabric choices.
Thanks for such warm and kind response. You are the motivation I need to really get blogging. So check with me often and thanks again to SewMamaSew and all you readers and responders.
Http://blog.hotpotatoes.com
Love tunics!
Wow! Great tutorial.
I have always loved tunics, I guess it had to come around to being in fashion some time!
Really nice tunic & great explanations. Thanks for the excellent links too!
Thank you! I have a couple of tunics on the docket and will definitely come back to this tutorial.
Love the sewing tips. Thanks.
Thanks for the tutorial! Love the fabric choice!
Wonderful tunic! I’m looking for summer tops that are cool but not revealing & this fits perfectly!
This was a great post. Please put up more info on altering patterns to make the so-so ones work for each of us! I agree the details are key, something I”m just learning.
Thanks for the tutorial…
I already bookmarked it for my reference
Now I have to try working with a front slit. I thank you for this because it appears that your tips would make it possible to sew a perfectly lovely tunic top with 100% cotton.
Super cute fabirc! Great tutorial!
what a timely post- i was just looking at the schoolhouse tunic last night and soliciting opinions today- wondering if it would be flattering on me
thanks
Wonderful tutorial, I might just give one another chance.
I have a tunic pattern but haven’t dared to make one yet… This tut does help – and who knows I may make my own here real soon! Thanks so much!
Great tips – especially the bias tape armhole facing – I think I will try that this summer.
I’ve been itching to sew some clothes and you have given me some inspiration. thanks!!
What a helpful post. I have been working on adapting patterns and have found that what sometimes seems like a good idea in the beginning is not one in execution. Sigh.
Still learning,
Jane
I love this tutorial!
I love tunics
You’re so right, they do hide flaws really well. Great tutorial!
Thank you for all of the great tips!
Love this tutorial. Thanks for sharing!
A great post, sharing what one has learnt in their trials is golden…thank you so much!
I have been obsessed with making a new chambray tunic-y top, this post could not have come soon enough!
I want to make clothes!
Cute!
I already had the pattern and material, now maybe this tutorial will help me make the adjustments I know I’ll need for a good fit. Thanks!
With all the doggone snow we have gotten recently I am stuck indoors, good thing there is the internet, thanks for giving me something to do.
I just wanna thank you for sharing your information and your site. I’ve learned something today. Thanks!
Great tutorial. Thank you.
I needed to thank you for this interesting I definitely loved every little bit of it. I’ve you bookmarked your site to look at the latest stuff you post.