Machine Quilt Binding Tutorial
Today you can learn an easy technique for machine binding quilts with Mary from Mary on Lake Pulaski. Learn more about Mary in her introduction and have fun with your binding! This is perfect for everything from quilts to potholders and more…
Bind a quilt completely by machine and have it look like it was done by hand.
Use for wall hangings, baby quilts, hot pads and any item you are not having judged or want to hold up to lots of washings. This method is so fast you can bind the quilt in no time!
Note: Read everything but start at #13 if you are an experienced quilter and have your own way of sewing the binding to your quilt.
1. Once your quilt top is quilted, stitch around the perimeter 1/8” from the edge if you have not already done so to hold all the layers together.
2. Cut (2 ¼”) strips of binding fabric so you have enough to go around your quilt plus 10”.
3. Join the strips by mitering the adjoining edges, trim to ¼’ and press seams open.
4. Press long raw edges of binding strip wrong sides together.
5. Optional: Wrap binding on an empty thread spool and place on your extra sewing machine spindle.
6. Leaving a 5” tail and starting on the bottom middle of top of your quilt, stitch binding to quilt using ¼” seam allowance.
7. Stop ¼” before you get to the corner and sew off the edge of you quilt at a 45 degree angle.
8. Next fold the binding up forming a 90 degree angle and then fold it down so the fold is even with the edge you just finished sewing.
9. When nearing the fourth side where you started, stop sewing 5” before you meet where you started adding the binding.
10. Overlap by the total width of the binding; in this example 2 ¼” and trim the two overlapped binding strips at 90 degree angle.
11. Line up the two ends of the binding at a 90 degree angle and draw a 90 degree line on the top one. Stitch along this line, trim seam allowance to ¼” and finger press seam open.
12. Check to ensure the binding length matches the quilt and stitch the remainder of the binding down. Trim the batting and backing to match the raw edge of the binding and the quilt front.
13. If necessary, change your presser foot and set your machine for a small zigzag. For my machine it is 3.0 setting for the width and 2.0 setting for the length.
14. Lay your quilt on your machine table with the back side up.
15. Next fold the binding around from the front to the back and match the folded edge of the binding with the stitch line on the back of the quilt where you attached the binding on the front.
16. Place the right side this fold directly centered under your presser foot and start sewing right where the angle of the binding meets the fold of the quilt back.
17. Slowly hold everything in place and zigzag so when the needle goes left, it catches that layer of binding and quilt back and when it goes right, it goes off the edge completely.
18. You will want to catch the very edge of binding AND the very edge of the backing of the quilt right inside the stitching line where you attached the binding EVERY time you zig to the left.
19. You will not want the needle to go through any fabric when you zag to the right.
20. Sew until you get to the corner and either backstitch or tie off the threads.
21. Continue on with the other three sides.
22. Tack the corners of the binding on the back of the quilt.
23. This is the wrong side of the quilt after stitching and the binding is still folded back.
24. This is the wrong side of the quilt after stitching with the binding unfolded.
25. Ta-da… This is the close up of the right side of the quilt with the binding ALL SEWN BY MACHINE!
You can see a short QuickTime video that shows this technique here.
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