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Wrap Skirt Pattern Draft Tutorial

From Kristin: This fantastic tutorial and the next were written by Bethany. You can read her introduction here, and see more of her New Vintage Wardrobe creations on her blog, Bitter Betty Blogs.
Supplies
You will need:
Wrapping paper.
5th grade math skills or a calculator.
Pen or pencil
Measuring tape.
Straight edge.
The courage to face your measurements.
To draft this pattern which you will need you waist measurement and the total length that you would like the skirt to be. Also take your hip measurement to check against the pattern to make sure the skirt will give you adequate coverage! Measure where your waist where you want the skirt to sit. I measured at my true waist for this one because I am going for That “Audrey Hepburn” retro chic deal. (Funny because my geometry is all based on a disco wrap pattern I found at the thrift store. Ha.)      

Was that painful? Remember they are just numbers and this is a wrap skirt so when they go down you can just cinch it in. Now, how long do you want it to be? Measure from your “waist” to where you want the skirt to end. Mine is 33 inches, but I am doing a pattern for a friend that is 20 inches. Her’s is more “knee length with high hip wrap”.

Okay.. Now the math. It’s easy!
“Waist” plus 6 inches for the overlap, plus 2 inches for the seam allowances.
Now divide by 4.
Viola: waist number!
Hip # Just to check your coverage…same math.
Length: total length –1 inch (waist band offsets the seam allowances with 1 inch difference.)
Bottom width: For a Long skirt (33 inches) you multiply “waist math answer” by 2.75
For a knee length (20 inches) you multiply “waist math answer” by 2.25

I won’t go into how risky (or should I say risqué??) the whole ‘Mini wrap skirt thing’ might be, but I haven’t tested the geometry. Likely, the ‘knee length math’ should work pretty well.

Now when you draft you pattern I find old wrapping paper is pretty useful.

Start at the top right of your paper..

Drop down a few inches and then make a horizontal line the length of the waist math answer:
(W + 6+2 divided by 4)      

Make another line from the front tip of the waist measurement down the paper using the Length # ( L -1)

Now at the bottom of that line make another horizontal line this time using the bottom width equation.
Draw a vertical line straight up, about 18 inchesNow go above the first mark you made and on the top of the far end measure up 3 inches for a “true waist” and 2 for a “high hip.”
I used a pattern for a guide but can use a “belt curve” that they have at sewing stores or a steady hand and keen eye. Make it a smooth as possible though, as your bottom curve is based on this line.Now From the top of that curve use your straight edge to connect that point to where it intersects with the vertical line you just drew.
Check about 7 inches down… make sure your skirt is wider than your Hip math result
( H+6+2 DIVIDED BY 4)Move the top of your straight edge down the curve measure your length and make a dot… repeat … and press repeat … repeat.
Connect the dots. Neaten the curve.
Write on your pattern “Place On fold “ down the front of the first line you drew.      

Some where on there write, “cut two”.

Cut it out. The pattern, I mean.

Go shop for fabric. Two fabrics that look good together.EDITED:  If you are going to use 44″ wide cotton, you need about 3–3.5 yards of fabric for each side.  See this post:  http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/?p=104. 

For sanity’s sake I picked two that I was certain would wash/ wear and weigh similarly. It just makes life easier.I picked two nice quilting weight cottons.

Coming up… Wrap Skirt Construction!
This entry was posted on Wednesday, May 23rd, 2007 at 7:13 pm and is filed under Sewing Tips, Tutorials & Projects. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Responses are currently closed, but you can trackback from your own site.

12 Responses to “Wrap Skirt Pattern Draft Tutorial”

  1. Awesome wrap skirt tutorial, including how to draft pattern « my half of the brain responds:
    Posted: May 23rd, 2007 at 11:49 pm →

    [...] Awesome wrap skirt tutorial, including how to draft pattern May 23rd, 2007 Super excellent reversible wrap skirt drafting and sewing tutorials at Sew, Mama, Sew!, by Bethany at Bitter Betty Blogs. [...]

  2. June responds:
    Posted: May 24th, 2007 at 12:14 am →

    Thank you for sharing this very helpful tutorial. You and the skirt look fabulous!

  3. mj responds:
    Posted: May 25th, 2007 at 3:13 pm →

    I may just have to try this! It looks easier than the fitz patterns wrap skirt, maybe because the measurements seem more exact.

  4. Emily responds:
    Posted: May 25th, 2007 at 3:44 pm →

    This is awesome! I’ll be making one this weekend.

  5. Sarah responds:
    Posted: May 25th, 2007 at 4:27 pm →

    Wow Bethany, what a great tutorial!

  6. Jessica responds:
    Posted: May 25th, 2007 at 5:30 pm →

    Thanks for this great tutorial.

  7. Not So Crafty » Making a Mess One Popsicle Stick at a Time » Summer Skirts responds:
    Posted: May 25th, 2007 at 8:51 pm →

    [...] Sew Mama Sew has a great tutorial from Betty of Bitter Betty Blog on making a reversible skirt. It’s a classic retro style skirt which reminds me of something Grace Kelly would wear in To Catch a Thief. [...]

  8. Cici responds:
    Posted: May 25th, 2007 at 9:51 pm →

    Wow! Now for the courage to face my measurements…

  9. Christina responds:
    Posted: May 26th, 2007 at 1:32 pm →

    This is such a lovely skirt and tutorial! I check Bitter Betty’s blog daily because I love her style and the inspiration she oozes. I’m really smitten by her ideas…off to sewing a skirt, now!

  10. Sara responds:
    Posted: July 6th, 2007 at 1:30 pm →

    Loved the pattern I used it for my girls (4&6) they look so cute
    The math works for kids too. Can’t wait to make one for myself

  11. River responds:
    Posted: September 20th, 2007 at 2:18 am →

    Thank you so much for your time and effort! I’ve used this to make several… and added a small twist. I made 2 that are reversible. Your instructions made it so easy even I could follow them :) )

  12. Laura responds:
    Posted: November 8th, 2007 at 3:58 pm →

    Thanks for this tutorial. I am making my third one and I really don’t even know how to sew the right way. One for my niece, one for me, and one for my friend’s little girl. They make great presents for little girls.

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