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How to Make a Buttonhole
Sally from Sew Sally teaches sewing classes in Portland, Oregon and today she teaches us how to create a buttonhole. You can learn more about Sally here. Tomorrow we’ll share buttonhole tutorials for a variety of sewing machine brands (many machines have their own process “quirks”), including the old stand-by bartack approach. With Sally’s help you don’t have to be intimidated by buttonholes!
From Sally: The first thing to do is measure the button, to know how big of a buttonhole you will need. The length of the buttonhole should be the diameter of the button PLUS the thickness of the button PLUS 1/8” for wiggle room.
If you are using a shank button, measure the diameter and the shank plus 1/8” for wiggle room. If you use a ball button, wrap a ¼” strip of paper around the button, marking the circumference and add 1/8” to that length.
Now get your machine set up to sew a buttonhole. Be sure you are using a suitable needle. Regular weight cotton or polyester thread gives good results. Buttonhole twist is best suited to hand-sewn buttonholes and can add unnecessary bulk to your machine-sewn buttonhole.
Some machines have a hole in the finger of the bobbin case. Thread the bobbin regularly and then thread it through the hole in the finger. This will increase the bobbin tension, helping pull the thread to the underside and resulting in a more rounded appearance in the stitching on the right side.
Be sure to use the correct foot. The foot should have two grooves on the bottom (or one extra-wide groove) to accommodate the two rows of satin stitches. An automatic buttonhole foot will have markings on the side to measure the length of the buttonhole.
I have set the red sliding arrow on the left of the foot to the measurement that equals diameter of my button plus button thickness plus 1/8”.
Begin sewing. On my machine, I sew until the red arrow is pointing to a small red dot and then I push the reverse button. This tells the machine that the buttonhole is long enough. The left side of the buttonhole is complete.
And then my machine sews back up to the top of the buttonhole, makes the bar tack at the top, sews the right side of the buttonhole, and then the bar tack at the bottom.
When I raise my presser foot, the automatic buttonhole foot slides back to the starting point and the machine is ready to make an identical buttonhole.
Now I’m ready to cut open the buttonhole. I place pins at each end, just inside the bar tacks. This keeps me from cutting through the bar tacks. I use a seam ripper, but small sharp scissors would work equally well. Start in the middle, cut toward one pin, then turn and cut toward the other pin.
Test to see if the button fits!
Now you might be ready to make some adjustments:
- Lower your top tension and the thread will get pulled down to the underneath side. Adjust about a half step at a time, testing at each adjustment.
- Adjust your stitch length if the zig zag is too dense or too far apart.
- Use interfacing or underlining to support the fabric and prevent distortion. Use dark interfacing on dark fabrics, as it may peek through at the cut edges of the buttonhole.
- Use the grain of the fabric to your advantage whenever possible, setting the buttonholes on the straight of grain and avoiding the bias.
- Use your slide-on extension table for better fabric control.
Ready to try a corded buttonhole?
Cording reduces the elasticity of a buttonhole, but adds strength, body, and durability. The cording is hidden between the fabric and the stitches, so gives a slight raised look to the buttonhole. Perle cotton or buttonhole twist are nice choices.
Check the slits on the back and the front of your buttonhole foot to see where the cording will fit.
Once the cording is in place on the foot, you can sew the next buttonhole. Hold onto the tails of the cording, but not so tightly that the machine can’t feed the fabric properly.
Once the buttonhole is completed, you will have a loop of cording at the top of the buttonhole.
Gently pull the tails and the loop will disappear into the top bar tack. Thread the tails onto a hand sewing needle and pull the tails to the back.
Tie off the tails on the back side.
Test the buttonhole!
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I have always been afraid to do buttonholes! It’s been years since I tried it. I’ll have to give it a whirl now.
I’m kind of a newbie sewer and so intimidated by buttonholes, thanks for taking us through it. I think I will give it a shot this weekend!!
Wish me luck!!
Great tutorial. The pictures are really helpful. And I like that you showed how to do a corded buttonhole!
How to sew on a button was a greeat tutorial. Just in time as I ma putting some buttonholes in a pillow I am making. it has been awhile since I sewed a buttonhole. thanks.
great info! thanks for sharing!
Wow! What a wonderful tutorial on how to make buttonholes! I’m really new to sewing and this tutorial makes buttonholes not so scary! Thanks!!
Great tutorial! Thanks!
Thank you so much for this tutorial! Buttonholes terrify me! I will have to get brave and give them a try now!
What a fantastic tutorial! The photos are great too. Thanks for this -
Thanks for the tutorial Sally! Your machine has one heck of a buttonhole foot. I don’t think mine is quite that handy but you can be sure I’m going to explore it a lot more after this tutorial.
Corded buttonholes– how awesome is that! I never would of thought to do that. Thanks sew, mama, sew for teaching me sew much!
I’ve done regular buttonholes, but could not decipher the instructions in my manual for corded buttonholes! Thanks for the tips. I’m going to have to try out the corded buttonhole now!
Thank you! I’ve always put off anything with buttons because I never learned how to do button holes. I’ll be practicing this now. It’s nice too, to see how an automated machine does what I would have to do manually.
I haven’t even dared to try one of these yet, but you make it seem so simple!
That’s just the tutorial I needed. Thanks!
I’ve never done a corded buttonhole before. Thanks so much for the tutorial! I can’t wait to try it!!
Thanks for the nice, simple demonstration!
Fabulous! Thanks for sharing! Learned something new today!
thank you for this!!!
Thank you! This was really helpful– I always struggle with button holes. Maybe the answer is to get the right foot!!
I use to be fine at making button holes with my old machine…my new machine however doesn’t seem to work so well. I may need to sit down with the manual and just work through step by step. Funny how some machines handle certain aspects of funtionality better than others. THanks for this informative post. I had never heard of corded button holes before, but will find a need for them on certain projects I’m sure.
I learned a new trick…a corded buttonhole. Neat! Thanks!
Thanks so much for this post. I love posts on basic techniques that are clear and detailed, and also can take you one step further – as with the corded buttonhole. Great job!
This is wonderful, thank you! I don’t know why I find buttonholes so terrifying, I really need to get over it!
Great tutorial! I was hoping for a Button Hole “How-To”. Thank you so much, Sally. I am sure that I will be referring back to this a number of times.
I hadn’t heard of a corded buttonhole before — can’t wait to try out some new techniques! Thanks for the great info
Oh thank you for this! Perfect, perfect timing. I just finished cutting out pieces for a dress that has two buttons on it — my first attempt at buttonholing. I’m an impatient middle-aged woman who is teaching herself to sew!
Oh, if only my buttonholer always worked as planned! Last project, I set it up and it did the first buttonhole perfectly…but I waited till the next day to do the second and apparantly the magic was gone–the second one (of 2 mind you) was a MESS!!!!!!
I will bookmark this and refer next time!
It still looks scary, but more doable! I look forward to tomorrow’s segment on specific machines, too!
Buttonholes scare the bejujies outta me…. Thanks for the walk-through! I’ll have to give it another try!
Such nice buttonholes! There is still a lot to learn for me. But my machine doesn’t make them automaticaly, so I have to do it myself.
Thanks for making that easier. For some reason buttonholes are intimidating.
Thanks for the great tutorial. I wish I had a nice button-hole foot for my machine! Maybe I’ll win one?!!!
Wow, thanks for posting this. I have never made a button hole and am trying to finish a pinafore for my daughter, which just happens to need to buttons! Looking forward to the machine specific posts later!
Hi,
I love the pin idea. I have come pretty close to cutting through the ends of my buttonholes.
Thanks, Susan
This is the best tutorial I’ve read on button holes! Thanks so much!!!!! I now feel I can use something besides hook & loop tape!
I’m saving this page in my favorites….thanks so much
Thank you so much for the very useful tutorials, especially the corded buttonhole. I have been intimidated by them but now I shall practice and conquer, you made it look so doable,
wait a minute–that’s what that little ruler is for? and there’s a FOOT for buttonholes??? oh dear. i better bookmark this one.
Wow.. thanks Sally! I don’t have any use for button holes JUST YET… but I’ll keep this bookmarked until then!
This is a great tutorial. I can’t wait for tomorrow’s post!
Thanks for posting this, I find buttonholes infuriarating. I will have to set my computer up to this instruction next time I’m working on one. I think I have the wrong foot! Argh.
This is very interesting. I just made my first buttonholes this weekend – I was so proud of myself! Though my machine’s foot had a slot to put the button into, to adjust the size, so I didn’t have to do any measuring.
Thank you, Sally — buttonholes are easy with my machine, but i had no idea how to do a corded buttonhole, and I am so grateful for your terrific tute. Your pictures and text are sending me to my machine to try some practice corded buttonholes myself.
Woah – I have never seen this corded buttonhole. Great tutorial!
Perhaps Sally can do one on zippers someday… preferably with a video…
Another great tutorial, thanks so much!
Thank you for the easy to follow instructions!
Thanks for the tutorial. You just made teaching my daughter easier.
Debra
Thank you for sharing! I had NO idea you could do corded button holes. That’s awesome! I’m going to try this technique for sure.
Thanks for your great tips. I am now going to put pins in place so I don’t accidentally cut through the bar tracks.
This is a magnificent tutorial. I love the tip about the hole in the finger of the bobbin case.
One little point of (my) confusion … That cording used for the corded buttonhole the Perle cotton or buttonhole twist, and the machine is threaded with uses regular weight thread in both examples? I think that’s what I’m reading. Thanks.
Thanks, Sally! I picked up a lot of great tips from your tutorial!
What a great tip to pin the edges of the buttonhole before cutting! Thanks for the very clear pictures, too.
I’d never even heard of a corded buttonhole. Thank you for this tutorial.
Okay, you made that look so easy that I’m seriously tempted to try again! In the past my button holes looked more like ragged caves in the face of my fabric, lol…it wasn’t pretty, But I never knew about putting the pins at either end of the button hole and that was always where mine fell apart, so I’m excited. Thanks for the information!
I always wondered what that little ruler was used for. I’ve never used it myself! But then again, I’ve never sewed a button hole either!
Thanks for the tips on button holes, I need to see if I can do a corded button hole on my machine. The only thing I don’t agree with is how to cut open the hole. I know everyone has there own way but if you start from one end and only cut to the middle and then start at the other end and cut to the middle you don’t have to put in pins or worry about cutting the bar tacks.
I’ve sewn some bottonholes before. This was a great tutorial. It had a lot of great information for someone who is new to sewing buttonholes. Thanks.
This couldn’t have come at a better time!
Thank you for the helpful hints when making a buttonhole. I like that idea of threading the finger of the bobbin to make the top thread pull to the underside. I think I will try that next time. ~Michelle
Thank you for such an easy-to-follow guide, definitely takes the intimidation out of trying corded buttonholes!
I thought I knew how to make a botton hole…
Thank you for the great tutorial!
cool! I’ve always wondered what corded buttonholes were.
That looks so nice. My old machine doesn’t like making buttonholes, so I usually avoid them =(.
Great tutorial! I’ve owned like a half a dozen of those little metal slide ruler things in my life (there’s one in every sewing kit it seems) and never knew exactly what they were for.
Very clear instructions and photos… any chance of getting a tutorial like this for those of us without an automatic buttonhole feature?
Thank you for the helpful instructions!
I can’t wait to try the corded buttonhole! Thanks for the instructions.
Great tutorial! Thanks!
Cool! I didn’t know what cording was ’til now. Thanks!
That did make sewing a buttonhole much less intimidating!! Thanks!
Awesome tutorial Thanks
I wish I lived in Portland so I could take your classes!
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU! It doesn’t matter how many times I make a buttonhole, I STILL feel VERY self conscious about doing it! So, thanks for posting this so I can have a “go to” when i’m making a button hole.
Wow,thanks. I been fearful to try it, seemed so overwhelming to do. But this tut was great.
Woo hoo for buttonhole lessons. Thank you and I can’t wait to try some.
Best tutorial I have EVER seen on corded buttonholes!
Thank you!
I had never even heard of a corded buttonhole. My machine has an automatic buttonholer, where you slot a button in one end. I’m thinking that I would probably need to make some adjustments, though, if it is a thick button. Thank you.
Thanks! This is so helpful!
Just in time. I have a few unfinished projects that need button holes. I have been putting it off because I couldn’t remember how to do it off the top of my head and didn’t want to dig out my machine’s manual. This tutorial was the perfect reminder. Now I can get my projects finished!
Buttons are the hardest thing to do on my machine. I just can’t for the life of me figure it out. Thanks for the tips, and I’ll be sure to check back for that tutorial as well!!
I had never heard of a corded buttonhole, I’ll be checking my presser foot to see if it will accomodate that. Thanks for the info!
thanks so much. this really helps.
What wonderful information! Thank you!
I love this tutoriall! Thank you so much!!!!!!!1
AMAZING! I never knew about the finger hole in the bobbin and further, I thought the little nib at the back of the buttonhole foot was just to keep you lined up on the buttonhole. The things I learn on this site. =) Thank you!
Great tutorial!
I never knew such a foot existed. But besides that the tip about the pins at the ends of the hole is a very good one. I have ruined a few garments by cutting too far.
Thank-you, thank-you for this. My buttonholes never turn out quite right. I’ll give this a try
Thank you for this tutorial! It is so helpful!
Awesome. I have never been able to figure out how you measure for a buttonhole! Thanks!
Thank you for the good tutorial!
wow. thanks for the great info.
wow! what a fantastic tutorial! the photos are so helpful
THANK YOU!!
I have always stayed away from buttonholes. I try to only do things with snaps or zippers, but Sally has given me the courage to try again.
Beautiful, well-done tutorial!
Holy cow! I’ve never even heard of a corded buttonhole. Your tutorial made me go straight to my sewing machine and pull out my buttonhole foot. Yepper, there’s a place for cords! Who knew? Well, now I do.
I too am intimidated by buttonholes. Someday I’ll own them!!!!
Thanks for the great post! I was always wondering how to sew buttonholes.
On the other I have a question. I am sewing straight lines on some cotton canvas. the top thread comes out perfectly straight but the bottom thread is very irregular. I have cleaned the bobin area, increased the top thread tension but nothing makes it better.!?!
Any tips??
Thanks
Perfect timing for this tutorial! I just made a pair of pants with my new serger and they need a drawstring waist, which calls for two button holes… guess I know what I’m doing tomorrow!
Nice tutorial! Tomorrow I hope you show the “quirks” with Pfaff buttonholes. Mine always look better on the wrong side.
great tutorial. now I need a machine to does buttonholes.
I learned how to do the corded button-hole when I bought my sewing machine, but have since forgotten… thanks for the refresher!
This is a timely post – there is a shirt in need of buttonholes glaring at me from the sewing table. Thanks for giving some useful hints!
Thanks for the tutorial – my buttonholes are a disaster! I’ve never really known the proper way to do them, so I have just sort of fuddled through them with no real direction on what I should be doing. Hopefully this will help!
I love buttons and butttonholes, but have avoided them like the plague. This is a fantastic tutorial though so I will keep it bookmarked to give a try. Thanks!!! ~Page
Oh thank you so much for this tutorial! I have been afraid of buttonholes for too long. Now to search for a zipper tutorial!
I have been so scared of making buttonholes and you make it look super easy! I usually use the snap fasteners that you bang on with a hammer. I’m going to have a go now, thanks!
THAN YOU!
Ahh exactly what i need i am yet to make buttonhole however i think i should have no problems after reading this tut. I’ve bookmarked this
I am so book marking this one. Haven’t done a button hole yet, but think I need to attempt it.
Oh wow! this is extremely helpful. Buttonholes are one area of sewing that I haven’t mastered.
It used to be zips, but through SMS I’m more confident with zippers. Thanks a bunch!
Now can you help me get over my fear of zippers? Thanks for the tutorial!
I had no idea how to a corded buttonhole-Now I know. Great tute!
Great tutorial and introduction to buttonholes! Most of us forget that there is more than the standard buttonhole.
Wow, truly incredible information here!!! I now have a new outlook on making button holes! I am definitely keeping this tutorial in mind for the next time I have to attempt one! Thank you!!!
Thanks for helping us tackle those scary buttonholes!
Great pictures and explanations! I’m still a little scared, but I think it’s about time to pull out that scrap material and my button box!!
Thanks so much for the tutorial!
Thanks for the tutorial. I’ve been staying away from buttons thinking that it was too complicated but your tutorial was straight forward and easy. I loved that you included lots of pictures too. Thank you!
My mom HATES buttonholes. Ever since I was little I’ve learned every single way to avoid doing a buttonhole that ever existed! I’ll have to share this with her. Maybe conquer some of that fear. Maybe.
Thank you for that very clear explanation! Even though my machine does everything for me I am still intimidated by buttonholes, this inspires me to go practice.
Wow, you make it look so simple. Now, I just have to learn how to use a sewing machine. Sadly, I still do it by hand, I can’t quite figure the machine out. One day…..
Wow! This is what I needed to make my buttonholes go from OK to stellar. Sally rocks!
Thank you SEW much for this tut! I’ll admit, I completely ignore this feature on my sewing machine. Too scary to contemplate. I’ve had a pair of pants for my youngest son sitting on my desk for ages- waiting for that dreaded button. I think I have the gumption to try this one out now!
I love my brother sewing machine! It has some automatic buttonholes so I do not have to worry about them anymore. Does it exist a sewing machine with an automatic zipper installation feature? I change all my patterns from zipper to buttons closure. Hate zippers!
This will really help in my upcoming pillow project that has button closures. Thank you!
Great tutorial, especially the corded buttonholes were new to me, I will get myself some heavier thread and give it a try.
I recently refreshed my buttonhole-by-machine skills by going over the instructions in my circa 1970 copy of Vogue Sewing, and was reminded that the EASIEST way to measure the right size for your buttonhole is to wrap a 1/2″ wide piece of paper around your button, then when you’ve removed the paper measure the diameter this marks, and then add that 1/8″ — I could explain it more fully, but having just gotten to see this wonderful picture-laden tutorial I think I’ll just say get yourself a copy of Vogue Sewing to figure it out.
Also, as to Manou’s question about the bottom thread tension — first I’d change my needle to see if that worked, a dull needle will cause tension problems. If that doesn’t do it, I might make a SLIGHT adjustment to the bobbin tension (see your machine’s instruction manual). If that doesn’t work, then take it to be serviced. My limited experience is that “timing belt” problems (?) are fairly common, they do cause loose bottom stitches, and going to get it fixed at the sewing machine store is the only remedy.
That looks neat! I’ve never tried a corded buttonhole, just a regular one. My machine is picky about when it will do a buttonhole and when it won’t.
Buttonholes make me so nervous! And so do zippers, which means I’m kind of sunk when it comes to making clothes…
Buttonholes and zippers! The two most scariest things for me to do. I’m ready to attempt a buttonhole now, using your tutorial. Thanks a trillion!!!
I really needed this tutorial. Thank you for sharing. I was trying (without success) to make button holes last night and my machine’s instruction manual has no illustrations. Big no-no for a visual learner like me.
So truly appreciate the pics and insight. Thanks again.
Thank you for the great information!
Thanks so much for the info Sally! I had no idea corded bottonholes even existed. I have a old Singer, I don’t think mine has a corded holder. Any suggestions?
i dream of making a nice looking buttonhole…sigh. my machine is just too clunky!!! hopefully, that will change soon!
I had never even KNOWN about corded buttonholes!!
Good tutorial! I have the regular #3 foot, so I don’t have the cool red dots to match up, but I’m able to draw my button hole on the fabric–a line to show the length with cross bars to indicate the bar tacks. Not quite as easy, but possible for those who don’t have the extra foot. I’m putting the foot on my Christmas list now, though!
A buttonhole foot? I obviously need to get back to my sewing machine store. I hate shopping so I never know about all the neat stuff out there. Thanks for teaching this old dog new tricks.
You are the best! Thanks a lot for this awesome tutorial. It wasn’t until I had a machine with a full automatic buttonhole that I dared to try one
What a great tutorial! I have been struggling with buttonholes. Thanks!
Thanks! Your blog never lets me down! I can always find something helpful.
Thanks so much for the tutorial
Yeah! I’m definitely gonna try this one! I’m a Bernina gal. Thanks for the tute!
Oh you know this is getting bookmarked!
Thanks Sally! Now I know why mine always turn out too small– I need to add the wiggle room.
Great buttonhole tutorial! I love the corded buttonhole part.
Boy do I need this one. My button hole skills are pretty sad.
Neat! I didn’t know about corded buttonholes before. My machine doesn’t have a special buttonhole setting… that I know of, so I have to sew them manually. I never thought of backstitching straight up and then satin stitching down again, I always just did the satin stitching backwards on the second side.
Thanks for the tutorial! I think my problem with buttonholes is that I try to never change my foot, so I just use a standard one and sort of wing it. Of course, they always turn out a disaster. After reading the appropriate way to make a button hole I can see why using the appropriate foot would be important!
buttonholes make me nervous but this is helpful! thanks!
Thanks for affirming that the way I make buttonholes is OK! Now I don’t have to tell people that I just made up my method–I can teach it to other people with confidence.
A corded buttonhole was totally new thing for me.
I haven’t even taken this little apparatus out of the bag it came in. I think I might give it a try.
I made my first buttonholes this morning. Yay for me!! Who says you can’t teach an old dog new tricks??
Such a great tutorial on buttonholes. I’ve always been terrified of them.
thanks for explicit tutorial – I am ready to give it a go!
Thank you, thank you. It is so helpful to see such great pictures and explanations for things my mom taught me and I just can’t quite remember!
I always had wanted to try corded buttonholes, but never really knew how to make them. Now I can go try it out! Thnaks ever so much.
this is awesome! thanks for taking the mystery out of buttonholes!
Thank you for this tutorial. I am a beginner at sewing and I have been afraid of making buttonholes, but now I will give it a try!
This is a great tutorial. Thanks!
isnt it funny how everyone has such a hard time making an intentional hole in something but i find i am pretty good in making big mistakes that resemble holes!!! thanks for sharing this. i finally found a great machine that really makes great buttonholes..my first attempts at buttonholes were pathetic!!!
christi
Still intimidated but I’ll give it a try! Thanks for an informative tutorial!
Buttonholes are something I haven’t tried yet. You make it look pretty simple. I think maybe I might give it a try.
very interesting, thanks! i was just about to do some button holes and it’s nice to have a refresher.
What a helpful tutorial! Especially the corded buttonhole. Thank you so much!
I have an old machine, so I need to head to the store to see what kind of button foot I can use with mine. I see buttons in my future [i certainly don't see graduating to zippers yet.]
I had no idea that I could make a corded buttonhole with my buttonhole foot. I think I need to make a blouse….
I wish my new Singer machine had a metal buttonhold attachment. I love the auto-buttonhole feature but the plastic attachment is so flimsy..the button always pops out. Anyone know if Singer makes a metal upgrade?
I love your explanation of the corded buttonhole. I’m going to try that the next time I need a buttonhole. I just did a bunch of plain buttonholes on the back of two little girl dresses.
I just started making buttonholes after much trial and error. I have one of the new, inexpensive Singers, and the buttonhole instructions in the manual are incomplete. i checked their website and found nothing there either. Even though my machine is much different than yours, thank you for the tutorial.
I hadn’t see the corded buttonhole technique before, but now I think I’ll have to give it a try! Thanks for the great tutorial.
OHHHHHHHHHHH so that’s how you do it!!!!!!!!!!!